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The T8T nitro off-road truggy is Team C's latest 1/8 scale competition offering and features a front biased weight balance chassis design, long suspension wishbones and a cab forward body shell.

The T8T comes as "rolling chassis" without engine, exhaust or tyres but includes a clear body shell (already on the way to our airbrush artist) and white "inch-up" disc wheels.

Assembly starts with the adjustable servo saver. You can also see the front chassis brace made from composite plastic and the upper steering brace with metal reinforcement plate. The chassis braces are soon also available as aluminium parts to make for a less flexible chassis.

We recommend to apply a small drop of thread lock on the servo saver thread to secure the adjustment nut.

We tightened the nut all the way down to nearly lock the servo saver as we are going to use one of Savöx' new SC-1268SG high-voltage metal gear servos that should easily cope with the rigours of off-road truggy racing.

The T8T's ultra long 3mm 7075-T6 hard anodises aluminium chassis.

The steering assembly in place. You can also spot the steering link with a total of three different Ackermann positions (that's the "chassis-coloured" part that links the left and right steering bellcrank).

The differential's cross pins sport flattened spots to interlock with the diff case. This way the spider gears are held firmly in place for a smoother, better working unit.

A (nearly) completed differential with (blue) seal, the spider gears and lubricated rubber seals. We used Castrol's White Paste on the outdrive seals as you can imagine from the white grease that is visible on the input gear.

Supplied with the kit is 7000cst front/centre and 3000cst rear silicone differential oil.

After the first couple of build steps we had a bit of a carnage on our workbench as the part bags are not necessarily packed according to the build steps. As long as you use parts trays or the like that's not much of a problem.

The front differential inserted in the gear box. We used both of the thin shims on the gear side to adjust the backlash of the gears. When taking a bit of care while putting the diff together the whole unit runs super true.

The front carrier and steering knuckles are completed. The wheel hex adapters are of a medium off-set making for a low kingpin offset value. The offset however is slightly bigger compared to buggy hexes but far away from the one seen on 1st Gen truggy kits. As a rule of thumb: the shorter the hex adapters, the better the vehicle steers.

The CV-style drive shafts are of a captured cross pin design. The pin in question is held in place by the inner wheel bearing meaning you do not have to worry about loosing one of these darn grub screws (and the pin later on).

The fitting of the suspension pins in the suspension FR suspension mount is a bit on the tight side. We used a hammer to gently (!) drive the pins into the mount.

Make sure to cover the aluminium mount with a bit of tape to protect the part from becoming scratched. Or simply use a plastic or Delrin covered one …

The front suspension nearly completed. The wishbones, 7075-T6 aluminium shock tower and anti-roll bar are already in place.

Building camber links can be a pain at times. Make you life easier by enlarging the hole for the turnbuckle with a body reamer (see the cone on the lower side?) and by using a screw, washer and nut to insert the pivot ball into the ball cup.

Line everything up as seen above with the washer facing against the ball cup and the nut against the pivot ball.

When tightening the screw, the washer is pressed against the ball cup and the nut forces the pivot ball into the ball cup.

Et voilà, the (nearly) completed front end sans shocks. The upper 1-piece shock mounts and the body posts are already installed.